Nikki havde givet mig et råd inden Cape Town 'hvis du bare tager ud i det størst muligt, så ved du at du kan alt’
Så var det jo heldigt at Windy appen viste rød på vind de næste dage? Stuart og jeg var faktisk ved at baile ud fra at ro DW dagen efter, det var seriøst voldsomt! men tanken strejfede mig; Vil jeg ro ved stranden og blive tævet af bølgerne gang på gang, eller vil jeg ro en Downwind, hvor jeg kun skal ud EN gang og ind gennem bølgerne EN gang? Derfor blev det en Downwind fra Millers.
Vi var 12 i Millers Taxi, den minibus med trailer der kører shuttel fra klubben til Millers Point, hvor vi sætter bådene i. Der blev lavet en stemning i bussen; ’wow, never seen it this big’, ’ ich, dont get to close to shore’, værre og værre kommentar. Jeg bad dem i en sjov tone om at være lidt afdæmpende. En mand svarer ’don’t worry Emma, it is always much bigger when you are outthere… Idioterne i bussen, mig inklusiv vurderer vi sagtens kan tage den svære vej ud, så slemt er det jo ikke.
Jeg startede også med at blive grebet af en utrolig lettelse, da jeg endelig sad i båden - jeg skulle sådan tisse!
Så var det bare at ro mod og op og ned af bjerge og ud, indtil man var sikker på man ville få den rigtige linje, når man vendte sin båd. Jeg faldt i, kom nemt op - det føltes godt! Det var stort, det var ikke bølger, det var bjerge i alle retninger. Efter godt en time er jeg inde igen. Samtidigt med de andre, før de fleste andre? Hvad skete der lige for det? Jeg er et stort smil, shit pomfrit, nu kan jeg huske hvilken adrenalin junkie jeg var, da jeg var her sidst.
Jeg var så høj, havde ikke været bange på et eneste tidspunkt. Ja, det var stort, det var vildt, men jeg følte hele tiden jeg havde styr på det. Manden fra bilen spørger om jeg var bange, jeg må stolt sige kæmpe nej. 'I was' svare han, flere af mændene havde måtte baile flere runs, hvilket vil sige at tage fødderne ud over kanten på båden, sidde stabilt, men dermed ikke surfe med bølgen. 'sometimes I was just paddling to survive' another one commented'.
To dage efter.
Nu er vi 18 adrenalin junkier I bussen. Ingen har egentlig regnet med det ville blive stort. Men det er det, og der er mere vind. Du Skal virkelig holde fast i din pagaj, ellers flyver den af helvedes til.
Jeg er fuldstændig i kontrol. Sidste gang var jeg i kontrol, og ikke bange. Denne gang kan jeg se mange flere muligheder, jeg flyver over bølgerne. Det er helt latterligt fedt. Med 5 km. Hjem ændre bølgerne system, nu er det kun rene store Bjerne af bølger der kommer forbi. Jeg vil ikke vide hvor høje de er, 3-4 meter? Men jeg har styr på det. Det havde jeg altså ikke haft for to år siden, det var det med en følelse af at ro for at overleve, der nogle gange var min motivation ' hellere over bjergene end under bjergene Emma' - Emma 2017 Jeg kommer ned i en bjergdal, så jeg kun kan se en mur af hav forand mig, et bjerg halvt igang med at stige i højde, halv igang med at skabe en dyb dyb kløft imellem mig og den bølge bag mig, så sker det uventede. Tre smukke delfiner hopper i en treenighed gennem den ene bølger over i den næste blot 2 meter fra mig. Wow! Jeg griner. Jeg har ikke tid til photoshoot, men shit hvor jeg dyrker verdens sjoveste, vildeste, og fedeste sportsgren!
ENGLISH
Nikki had given me a piece of advice within Cape point challenge 'if you just go out to the worst, you know you can do everything'.
So was it lucky that the Windy app turned red in the wind the next few days? Stuart and I were actually bailing out to paddle DW the next day, it was seriously violent! but the thought struck me; Will I paddle down by the beach and be beaten by the waves time and time again, or will I paddle a downwind where I only have to go out once and through the waves once? Therefore, it became a Downwind from Millers.
We were 12 in Millers Taxi, the minibus with trailer that shuttles from the club to Millers Point, where we put the skiis in the water. A mood was created in the bus; 'Wow, never seen it this big', 'I dont get to close to shore', worse and worse comment. I asked them in a funny tone to be a little subdued. One man answers 'Don't worry Emma, it's always much bigger when you are outthere ... The idiots on the bus, including me, we estimate we can easily take the hard way out to Millers.
I also started off with an incredible relief when I finally sat in the boat - I had to pee!
Then it was just to paddle down and up and down the mountains and out until you were sure you would get the right line when turning your boat. I feel in, got up easily - it felt good! It was big, it wasn't waves, it was mountains in every direction. After about an hour, I'm back. At the same time with the others, before most others? What just happened to that? I’m a big smile, big fun, now I remember what adrenaline junkie I was when I was here last.
I was so high, hadn't been scared at one point. Yes, it was big, it was crazy, but I felt the whole time I was in control. The man from the car asks if I was scared, I must proudly say no. "I was," he replies, several of the men had to bail several runs, which means taking their feet over the edge of the boat, sitting stable, but not surfing with the wave. "sometimes I was just paddling to survive" another one commented.
Two days after.
Now we are 18 adrenaline junkies in the bus. No one really figured it would be big. But it is. You really need to hold on to your paddle, otherwise it will fly away.
I am completely in control. Last time I was in control, and not afraid. This time, I can see many more opportunities I am flying over the waves. It's absolutely ridiculous fantastic. With 5 km. Home the waves change, now only the pure Big Bear of waves is coming by. I don't want to know how tall they are, 3-4 meters? But I can control it. I hadn't had two years ago. Two years agoe it was with a sense of paddeling to survive, that sometimes my motivation was 'rather over the mountains than under the mountains Emma' - Emma 2017.
I come down a mountain valley, so I can only see a wall of sea in front of me, a mountain half going up in height, half going up creating a deep deep gulf between me and the wave behind me, then the unexpected happens. Three beautiful dolphins jump in a trinity through one of the waves into the next just 2 meters from me. Wow! I laugh. I don't have time for photoshoots, but OMG I truly think my sport is the world's funniest, wildest, and coolest sport - ever!